Hainan Kopitiam
Hainan Kopitiam
Mr. & Mrs. Chong
About Hainan Kopitiam
Hainanese Kopitiams, or traditional coffee shops, are an iconic part of Ipoh’s culinary landscape. In the Hainanese dialect, "kopi" means coffee, and "tiam" means shop, so together, Kopitiam simply translates to "coffee shop". These establishments are known for serving three signature delights: the distinctively aromatic Hainanese coffee, crispy charcoal-grilled toast generously spread with homemade kaya and butter, and the light, fluffy Hainanese egg sponge cake.
The origins of the Hainanese Kopitiam trace back to the Hainanese immigrants from Hainan Island, China. Many of them arrived in Ipoh, where they found work as cooks and household staff for British families, who were at the time settling in Ipoh for its booming tin mining and trade. Over time, the Hainanese adapted to British tastes, incorporating coffee, toast, and butter into their repertoire. When the tin mining industry collapsed and the British families returned home, the Hainanese, with their refined cooking talents, found a new way to make a living by opening Kopitiams. Thus, the charming Hainanese Kopitiam businesses began to flourish in Ipoh.
Beyond their culinary talents, another reason many Hainanese chose to run kopitiams was the ability to balance family life with business. Thanks to British town planning, shophouses were common, with businesses occupying the ground floor and families residing upstairs. Kopitiams often operated from dawn until dusk, every single day of the year. In those simpler times, a cup of Hainanese coffee cost just a few cents, and with its long hours and inexpensive fare, the Kopitiam quickly became a beloved gathering spot for neighbours to relax, chat, and socialise in a world with limited entertainment options.
However, with the rapid changes brought by urban lifestyles and the rise of trendy new cafes and modern food courts, the traditional Hainanese Kopitiam has struggled to keep up. Many are sadly closing down or shifting to different business models, and this once-vibrant craft is gradually fading away in Ipoh.
“This job is really hard. You can’t just sit back and direct others. You have to work hands-on to see results.”
- Mr. Chong
Process of Hainanese Cofee and Toast
STEP 1: MAKE THE COFFEE POWDER
To prepare the perfect cup of coffee, the beans must first be roasted before being ground into powder. In Ipoh, two types of coffee stand out: the traditional Hainanese coffee and the iconic white coffee. While the roasting methods are similar, there is a subtle difference—traditional Hainanese coffee is roasted with sugar and butter, while white coffee is roasted with sugar alone.
STEP 2: BREW THE HAINANESE COFFEE
To brew an authentic Hainanese coffee, a few spoonfuls of ground coffee are placed into a specially made cloth filter. Hot water is then poured over the filter, and after a brief wait, the rich coffee is fully extracted and ready to serve. True to tradition, the coffee is served in a classic ceramic cup with a matching saucer. An important detail is that the cup must be soaked in hot water beforehand to ensure the coffee stays warm and retains its full flavor.
STEP 3: STEW THE KAYA
The key ingredients for making Hainanese kaya (coconut jam) are coconut milk, eggs, sugar, and pandan leaves. The cooking process is slow and requires about five hours of gentle stewing, with constant stirring to prevent the kaya from burning.
STEP 4: MAKE THE HAINANESE TOAST
Traditionally, the bread is toasted over charcoal until golden brown and crispy. Once toasted, a generous spread of kaya and butter is applied between two slices of bread. This delicious toast is often served with half-boiled eggs for the perfect Hainanese breakfast.
