The Hiong Pia Master

Master Liow, better known as 文仔 (Men Zai), is a master of Hiong Pia baker and owner of the 362 Hiong Pia in Gunung Rapat, Ipoh. His journey into Hiong Pia-making began at just 12 years old when he earned RM5 daily, which was an impressive sum for the time—while learning the intricate art of Hiong Pia-making. By the time he was 13, his talent and skill had propelled him from an apprentice to a master craftsman, earning him a raise to RM15 per day, a testament to his exceptional abilities.

Over the years, Master Liow honed his skills while working at various cottages before starting his own business at the age of 30. A pivotal moment came when a retiring colleague offered to pass the business on to him. Master Liow took up the mantle, running the shop successfully for 13 years and counting. Master Liow faced hurdles, from sourcing coconut husks for the clay kilns to personally selling pastries door-to-door. Coconut husks, essential for heating traditional clay-kilns, were often difficult to obtain, prompting him to travel out of Ipoh town every Sunday to secure an amount that was sufficient for the following week's operation. Selling was another challenge. In its early days, Hiong Pia was far from the popular treat as it is now. Hence, each evening, he would go house-to-house with freshly baked Hiong Pia, striving to establish a loyal customer base. “It was exhausting, seven days a week, with non-stop working”, he shares. 

Crafting Hiong Pia is labor-intensive, requiring both skill and teamwork. Master Liow explains, “The steps of preparing the dough are tedious and tiring, from preparing the filling to kneading the dough, assembling the pastries, and baking”. During the peak of his business, he managed a team of ten workers, each assigned to specific roles. The most gruelling task is pasting the dough onto the scorching walls of the kiln, where temperatures can reach 200°C, often causing burns. He often manages 2-3 kilns simultaneously without a moment to rest. “You needed high concentration. If you weren’t careful, the pastries would burn,” he recalls. With that, he used to work under pressure and long hours, typically from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m., were a small price to pay for maintaining the reputation of his pastries.

While many Hiong Pia makers have turned to mass production, Master Liow steadfastly upholds traditional methods. He has declined partnerships with souvenir stores seeking bulk orders, explaining that mass production could compromise the freshness and authentic taste of his pastries. By focusing on artisanal quality over quantity, Master Liow has preserved the essence of his craft. The business is more than a livelihood to him—it’s a tribute to his mentor and a testament to the enduring value of tradition. Despite the challenges, his dedication ensures that 362 Hiong Pia remains a beacon of heritage and craftsmanship.